Tuesday, 4 October 2011

My Jordan Diary: Petra

Abandoned centuries ago Petra was the rock cut stronghold of the Nabateans, a fortress city built to protect the lucrative levies its citizens imposed on the rich caravans heading north. Surrounded by imposing mountains and approached through a deep, narrow cleft in the rocks, known as the Siq, it is a unique and unforgettable place and, enhanced by the play of light and shadow, an altogether overwhelming experience. 
I walked down to the Siq on foot, following its towering sandstone walls towards the site of the captivating and iconic splendour of the beautiful Khazneh (The world famous Treasury). 

I joined a guided orientation tour which highlighted some of the key parts of this remarkable and ancient site, one of the most impressive and exciting anywhere in the world. I had realized my childhood dream. I enjoyed the Colonnaded Street and the Royal Tombs, walking off piste following a guide up into the rocks to enjoy the site of its amazing Roman theatre, with its 8,000 seats carved from the solid rock from above. I had taken some bread and cheese from the hotel at breakfast and sat at the bottom of the steps to the Monastery in the shade and took a look in the small museum there is there. 
800 steps of repentance
Once fed and rested I climbed the 800 steps of repentance, up to the Monastery. 
On my way up, on several occasions hugging the mountain's side as I walked by the cliffs' edges, taking high steps due to the steepness of the mountain, avoiding falls by prudently allowing people (mainly Americans) riding donkeys to bypass me on the narrowed path, trying not to loose my balance as I stepped on uneven rocks, all of these and even more were all well worth the climb due to the beauty of the landscape. I was glad to be climbing these in February rather then in the hot summer time. Temperatures have been known to reach the low 40s. 
As I climbed the steps Petra started disappearing from view by becoming smaller and smaller and the people walking around, starting to look like little ants.  More dazzling red-rose coloured mountains were added in the picture each one of them having a unique glow under the sun's vibrant rays.

Along the climb, several locals sitting on rocks were selling hand craft souvenirs whereas others, simply watching tourists walk by.  In several areas, middle aged women boiling water in huge silver kettles placed over camp fires, were offering cups of tea to people walking by with smiling faces, missing teeth and gold capped ones.   Donkeys tied up loosely around scarcely seen trees, baby camels sleeping in caved holes along the mountain. 
I headed down the same steps and back up to the entrance gates where there were female police officers guarding the gates. It was another taxi drive back up to the hotel where I enjoyed a swim before taxing back down to the Petra High Street for a cooking class at Petra Kitchen. 


High Place of Sacrifice
 My second day in Petra I took the route up to the High Place of Sacrifice. Far above Petra on a mountain summit, the Nabataeans carved out the High Place of Sacrifice, their most sacred open-air altar where they performed ritual killings of animals. The path to the altar includes obelisks dedicated to the kingdom's two main deities: Dushara, the god of strength, and al-Uzza, the goddess of water and fertility. 

Along with public worship, the Nabataeans also practiced private worship as evidenced by the shrines and niches cut into the surrounding rock face. They continued to practice this religion for hundreds of years, but by the early fourth century they had adopted Christianity as their main religion.
After taking in the views I headed back down other side down past the Roman soldier's tomb. For the rest of the afternoon I walked back up to the Royal tombs and then back up to the taxi rank at the entrance gates. A short taxi drive back up to the hotel and I was back in the swimming pool.
A night in was just what I needed even though there was an option to see Petra by night.
Read my diary of my trip to Jordan:


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