Life in London: My Morocco Diary - Essaouira via Agadir

Tuesday, 13 September 2011

My Morocco Diary - Essaouira via Agadir

Day 10: Drive to Agadir

In the morning we headed through the landscapes of the Anti Atlas, travelling via the settlements of Tazenakhte and Taliouine, with its magnificent, decaying Kasbah and onwards towards Ouled Berhil and Taroudant. We stopped to visit a saffron cooperative en route Known as the ‘Pearl of the Sous’ in Taroudant which has been at the centre of political life of the Sous Valley for generations. Lying before the imposing backdrop of the Anti-Atlas Mountains, amidst a landscape of olive groves and orange orchards, the town lies behind an impressive bastion of fortified towers and some of the best-preserved walls in the country. Strategically important and site of the region’s most important market, Taroudant once commanded a network of major trading routes and even today its bustling market lies at the centre of life.

Day 11: Drive to Essaouira via Agadir

This morning the beach on the Atlantic coast and watched girls in Burkinis jog along the wet sand. I took a walk further down the beach to Jimmy Hendrick's old how which is now a ruin with not much at all to see. In stark contrast to Berber settlements of the past days I found Agadir to be a modern city with a fabuloust beachfront. Essaouira was once a major trading port under the auspices of the Portuguese, before the Europeans were driven out in the mid C16th by a powerful confederation of tribes led by the Saadians. The city then went on to enjoy something of a golden age, before its eventual destruction by the Sultan Sidi Mohammed in the 1760s. The old town’s fate was finally sealed though when an earthquake destroyed the city on 29 February 1960, killing half the population and necessitating the complete rebuilding of the city. Following the coastline we then head for the historic port of Essaouira. I sat on a wall watching the sunset whilst reading a book alone. I was at peace. I had a few boys come up and try and sell an English version of a book or some sweets but I smiled said no thank you. Most asked me where I was from and when I answered London they replied "Arsenal!". No matter where I go football seems to be what brings men around the world together.

Day 12: Essaouira Essaouira is a very colourful coastal fishing town. Situated within 15th century Portuguese fortifications, the town has a relaxed but lively feel which has a decorated arched entrance. The old walled medina was magic.After passing through the narrow, highly minute gifts such as locally made rustic leather belts, gleaming gold and silver jewellery, or wooden boxes exquisitely inlaid with ebony and mother of pearl by local craftsmen. The lively throng of the Medina, with its local women carrying out their daily routines, veiled in their traditional dress, forms a sharp contrast to the open golden sands of the harbour area.

In the busy harbour area hopeful seabirds can be seen circling above the fisherman as they return from the blue waters with their daily catches. After a very fresh lunch of calamari and salad I took a stroll around the old town which includes the Mellah (the old Jewish Quarter).

One popular trade in Essaouira is wood, specifically wooden boxes. It was quite easy to spot the wares which had been made locally and the more refined/costly objects which had been brought into the town. I bought a number of boxes and bowls and if I had had a bigger suitcase I would have bought more. The sunsets in Essaouira were spectacular.