Visit Charles Dickens Museum, London

The Dining Room, Dickens' Museum

This unique Museum is based at 48 Doughty Street in the heart of Bloomsbury, London. 

It is the only remaining London residence of the celebrated writer and certainly worth a visit. It's a wonderful way of stepping back in time and experiencing a Victorian family home with additional treat of learning more about the writer, his influences and his works. 

Dickens' Museum Cafe - a real treat

The staff at both the cafe and in the museum itself were friendly and attentive which added to an enjoyable couple of hours at the Dickens' Museum.
 
Seeing the desk at which Dickens wrote in his study on the first floor was a particular treat. It was interesting to learn how regimented his day was; with writing from breakfast to lunch everyday to minimise distractions. 

One of his friends wrote:

 "His mind was essentially methodical and in his labour he was governed by rules

 laid down by himself and rarely departed from" 

The cafe on the ground floor includes a lovely little garde in which to enjoy Garraways Fairtrade coffee and cakes from The Little London Bakery. I enjoyed a large hot bowl of Butternut squash & parsley soup. It's worth noting you can visit the cafe without visiting the museum.

Dickens Museum Admission Prices:

Adult:  £8

Concession:  £6

Child 6-16 years:  £4

Children under 6 years:  Free

Artfund Members: Free

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The Angel Inn - Islington, London

Here "London begins in earnest..." Noah Claypole remarks to his companion Charlotte when walking past the Angel Inn in Charles Dickens' Oliver Twist before crossing into St John Road (now St John Street). 

Dickens was very familiar with the area of Islington. He recorded life in the area in both fiction and non fictional works throughout his life, the Angel Inn being one of them. There has been an Inn on this site since the C16th & The Angel, so named around 1638, was a popular stopping place for travellers to the City of London. 

No room at the Inn

During the year of the Great Plague a man broke free from his City home and sought refuge here, which was at that time fairly rural. He was refused admission. Another Inn took him in and he was found dead the next morning, 16 plague deaths followed. 

Islington underwent a rapid transformation in the early C19th moving from a rural area best known for its recreational facilities to one of an urban domain. It is understood Thomas Paine lodged here when living in London. The original Angel Inn was eventually demolished later that century.

The Truman, Hanbury, Buxton and Co brewery built the Angel Hotel in its place. A grand, six-story, red terracotta building (see pic above). Along with the opening the brewers optimistically called the Angel Inn "the widest-known hostelry in the world". The interior was rather splendid; the ground floor being faced in polished Norwegian granite and carved stone cherubs peeking out from the higher eaves. The staircase was equally impressive; mahogany and green-marble leading from the bar to an upstairs smoking room. 

As is with fashion nowadays, the highly en vogue Victorian design went out of fashion and the Angel Hotel closed 20yrs after opening. 

Lyons catering company bought the Angel Hotel renamed it the Angel Cafe and made it an addition to their Corner House post-war empire. In the 1950s it is said the company was serving over 100,000 meals a year to the public. It lasted until 1959, was used by the University of London's Geology Dept until the late 60s. It has served as a bank since 1979.

Thomas Paine once lodged at the Angel Inn. If you are in the area, you might be interested in seeing the obelisk of Thomas Paine, founding father of the United States.

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Thomas Paine in London - the Seeker of Truth?

Thomas Paine Obelisk, Angel Square, Islington 

Angel tube as with other tube stations is a popular meeting place. 

If you find yourself hanging around waiting for someone may I suggest nipping round the corner to Angel Square as there is a rather interesting obelisk only open during day time.

The obelisk is in tribute to Thomas Paine, one of the founding father of the United States. The obelisk was erected to commemorate the 200th anniversary of the publication of Right's of Man his most famous piece of work "Rights of Man" while lodging at the The Old Red Lion public house on the corner of Rawnstorne Street and St John Street. 

The Old Red Lion, St John Street

The Pub is still there and is now a fabulous little theatre which is well worth a visit. See what's on at the Old Red Lion Theatre. Thomas Paine also lodged at The Angel Inn, Islington when living in London.

Thomas Paine is also known to have lodged at the iconic Angel Inn on the corner of Islington High Street and Pentonville Road. The exterior may still be impressive but the Cooperative Bank which it now houses is less so.

Thomas Paine came from humble beginnings, being born into a Quaker family on 29th January 1737 in Thetford, Norfolk. At 12 yrs of age he failed school and left to become an apprentice to his father. His apprenticeship was complete in seven years after being an adventurous 19yr old went to sea. He soon came to London to seek his fortune where he became an Excise Tax Officer. In 1772 at the age of 31 he published "The Case of the Officers of Excise" arguing a pay rise for officers.

When 37, by happen-stance he met Benjamin Franklin in London who helped him emigrate to Philadelphia by

The Angel Inn, Islington High Street

providing letters of recommendation. At the age of 39, now having moved to Philadelphia, Paine wrote a pamphlet entitled "Common Sense" a strong defence for American Independence from England. In Paine's view the Colonies had all the right to revolt against a government which imposed taxes but didn't give them the right of representation in Parliament, Westminster, London. The publication was a huge success selling 500,000 copies.

The life expectancy then was c.50yrs old. And it was at this age Thomas Paine travelled across the Atlantic and back to London in an attempt to raise funds to build a bridge he had designed. Lodging at The Old Red Lion Pub he wrote his most famous work "Right's of Man", his response to criticism of the French Revolution. This work caused him to become an outlaw in England for his anti-Monarchist views. He escaped arrest by fleeing to France where he joined the National Convention.

Even though a true Republican Paine was imprisoned in France for voting against the execution of Louis XVI. During his imprisonment he wrote and distributed "The Age of Reason". He narrowly escaped execution by returning to America at the invitation of Thomas Jefferson.

Upon his return Paine found that much of his work towards an American Republic had been all but eradicated due to him being accused of being an Atheist. President Roosevelt stated "strong religious minds are not likely to be affected by the atheism of Paine."

Seven years later and Paine is on his deathbed with priests and religious nurses cajoling and threatening him to renounce his anti-Christian ways. He never did. Derided by the public and abandoned by his friends Thomas Paine died 8th June 1809 at the grand old age of 72 in New York City.

The newspapers of the day read "He lived long, did some good, and much harm" but with hindsight perhaps this is an unworthy epitaph?

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