Dickensian London

Dickens started to write Oliver Twist in 1837, the same year the Victorian era began, when the Anti-Poor Law agitations had reached their peak. He was a fierce critic of the poverty and social layering of Victorian society. His familiarity with Clerkenwell & Islington is reflected in both his fictional and non-fictional works. This novel provides a snapshot in time before the ‘Age of Improvement’ changed the London landscape to what we can see now.



A Young Charles Dickens, 1838


Follow the footsteps of Oliver Twist and the Artful Dodger - Guided Walk

This 90 min walk follows the footsteps of Oliver Twist and the Artful Dodger on their final leg of their journey into London to reach Fagin’s lair. See more Victorian walks

The novel of Oliver Twist wallows in the gritty realism of everyday London life. Many of Dickens’ contemporary critics claimed his novels to be too realistic, and that naïve readers (i.e. female readers) wouldn’t be able to tell the difference between fiction and reality, much like today’s fear with teenagers and their relationship between the real and the virtual world. This was true the novel Oliver Twist, which covers ‘dangerous’ topics such as poverty, crime and the relationship between the two.

Victorian London was a dangerous place especially after dark, with highwaymen and other scoundrel’s waiting to pounce on anyone crossing their path.

Related blog posts:

Victorian London - a social and literary maze

Guided walks in London

Social Topography of Victorian London, Charles Dickens

Oliver Twist meeting Fagin in Saffron Hill

Dickens exploits a spiritual topography; where the notion of neighbourhoods actively influences the lives and characters of the people who live in them. Victorian society avoided & ignored much of the underclass. Dickens highlighted social issues, using contrasting areas such as Pentonville and Saffron Hill & then forcing together through his characters.


For some areas e.g. Saffron Hill, the Victorian age became an era of neglect and ran unchecked until redevelopments forced the populous to move away and become the London we know today.

Follow the footsteps of Oliver Twist - Guided Walk

Victorian London was a dangerous place especially after dark, with highway men and other scoundrel’s waiting to pounce on anyone crossing their path. 

This 90 min walk follows the footsteps of Oliver Twist and the Artful Dodger on their final leg of their journey into London to reach Fagin’s lair. Find out more about Guided walks in London

Related blog posts:

Victorian London in Oliver Twist by Charles Dickens

London Guided Walks website

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Gin in the news!

Gin Crazy

In the mid-eighteenth century the effects of gin-drinking on English society makes the use of drugs today seem hardly news worthy.

Much of the gin was drunk by women, consequently the children were neglected, daughters were sold into prostitution, and wet nurses gave gin to babies to quieten them.

The thirst for gin appeared insatiable. People sold their furnishings and even their homes to get money to buy their favourite drink.

Here's my interpretation of a modern day magazine with gin related stories of the day.

More Gin related posts:

Hogarth's Beer Street and Gin Lane Engravings

It's Gin o'clock

See how Gin is made in London

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Music & Madness of Holloway, London

Holloway was much like other areas abandoned by polite society. Things could gestate without neighbours moaning, pubs could put on raucous music nights, former cinemas could become top rank music venues and accommodate large unruly crowds, the locals were partaking themselves!

Visiting the area was part of the frisson for concert goers, slumming it, but above all the quality of the acts brought the punters in from far and wide. The bands that cut their teeth in the area in the 1970's and 1980's went on to take the music world by storm.

Finsbury Parks own council estate prophet John Lydon AKA Johnny Rotten and the Sex Pistols, Blur, Madness, Ian Dury and the Blockheads, Oasis, Radiohead and the Arctic Monkeys to name but a few were acts which performed in Holloway.

Other Holloway related posts:

Music Halls of Holloway Road

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Your homemade Christmas

Here's a roundup of all things Christmassy which you can make for friends, family and even yourself!






Make your own:

Christmas Baubles

Christmas Hamper - different hamper ideas

After dinner mints

Edible Christmas Tree Decorations



Sweet Christmas Treats:

Spiced Christmas Biscuits

Alternate Mincepie Recipe

Snowflake Cakepops

Florentines

White Chocolate & Cranberry Fudge



Christmas Chocolates:


Ganache Chocolates

After dinner mints

Peanut Chocolates



Christmas Cupcakes:

Cute Snowman Cupcakes

Sophisticated Festive Cupcakes

Chocolate & Orange Tree Cupcakes

Christmas Parcel Cupcake



Savoury Delights:


Party Sausage Rolls

Jarred Roasted Peppers

Marinated Feta Cheese

Rhubarb Chutney


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The Blackspots of C19th Holloway, London

Joe Meek Plaque, Holloway Road, London

At the end of the nineteenth century this was a fairly respectable and affluent area,with the odd blackspot which this tour explores,but as the twentieth century wore on most of the populous moved out to the ever expanding suburbs and the area fell into disrepair. 

By the 1940's and 1950's the area had become notoriously rough and crime ridden. Gangs battled each other in the streets and a lot of the grand shops and restaurants closed their doors for good.

Cheap rents attracted struggling artists like Joe Meek and Joe Orton. A lot of the so called slums were demolished in the 1950's and council estates built in their place. Islington was considered to be an area to be avoided by respectable people. 

Seven Sisters Road, N7

The holloway Road area has it all; movie glamour, movie history, rookeries, bank robbery(with a pen as well as a gun), teddy boy gang fights, murdered coppers, musical innovation,writers, cottaging, black radicals, Bob Marley and loads of Charlie, in short something for everyone.

The beauty of London is that there's always something lurking below the apparently dull surface if you scratch hard enough.


Other Holloway related posts:

Music Halls of Holloway RoadMusic & Madness of Holloway

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Victorian London in Oliver Twist by Charles Dickens

Oliver Twist is a novel all about the gritty realism of everyday life in London.

Many of Dickens’ contemporary critics and reading public feared that novels could be too realistic, and that naïve readers (often female readers) wouldn't be able to tell the difference between fiction and reality. Especially for a novel like Oliver Twist, which is about "dangerous" subjects like poverty, crime, and the relationship between the two.

Please sir, I want some more

London is repeatedly described as a labyrinth or a maze – once you get into it, it’s hard to get back out. The city itself serves as a kind of prison. It’s filthy, foggy, and crime-ridden, and things aren't always what they seem.

Oliver is on his own from the start. No one pities him, and even though he’s supposed to be looked after by the parish authorities, no one takes care of him. He’s sent from one scene of cruelty and oppression to the next, and finally plucks up the courage to stick up for himself (first by asking for more food, then by hitting Noah in the face, and finally by running away). So, by the end of this stage, Oliver is completely on his own in the big bad world.

The Dodger tells Oliver he can come with him to a place where a gentleman will give him a place to sleep and food, for no rent. Oliver follows, and this is where our story begins…. Follow the Footsteps of Oliver Twist - a London Guided Tour


"The image of little Oliver Twist victimised by poverty, almost seduced by the specious excitement of crime, and then offered the possibility of a lucrative career in authorship is always compelling" Guardian



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Take a look at Cannon Brewery, St John Street, London

Cannon Brewery - 148-176 St John Street, London

Cannon Brewery originated with brew house attached to the Unicorn Inn. 

In the C19th Cannon Brewery was one of the busiest breweries in the country. 

St John Street Entrance

Beer is made from four basic ingredients: Barley, water, hops and yeast. The basic idea is to extract the sugars from grains (usually barley) so that the yeast can turn it into alcohol and CO2, creating beer. You can see the hops and barley carved into the capitals decorating the main door.

1764 (George III) the brewery was acquired by Dickensons. The additional money and know-how caused the Brewery to expand and was renamed St John of Jerusalem. In 1818 retirement and bankruptcy brought the Dickensons brewery to an end and the building was sold at action.

Cannon Brewery Office Building

The building was seriously damaged during the Blitz but the brewery resumes production after the war but closed in 1955. Remarkable oak doors from 1894 survived.

The oldest surviving part of the building is the former Brewery Yard Offices behind the old main entrance 1874-5 which include a large bracket clock. Carved barley and hope decorate the capitals of the doorway, the theme continues inside with coloured mosaic floor tiles of mostly brown and gold. 

Floor tiles, Cannon Brewery Office

This lovely building is now the London headquarters of the architects BDP (Building Design Partnership).

If you like this post you will like our 'Out Street - One Thousand Years guided walk


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Jack Sheppard Newspaper Article

What if you were asked to write a news paper article for Jack Sheppard in 10 mins. What would you come up with? Here's our attempt at a tabloid article. Enjoy! (click on it for a bigger image)

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Visit Quaker Memorial Gardens, Bunhill, London

Quaker Slate Memorial, Bunhill, London

The word 'Bunhill' evolved from 'bonehill' as the area had been used as a burial ground as far back as Saxon times.

There is a nice slate memorial shaped to resemble a burial mound. The memorial is believed to be in the spot where in 1750 the lead coffin of George Fox, founder of the Quaker movement, was found during the removal of a wall. The body was re-interred.

George Fox headstone, Quaker Memorial Gardens

The Quaker burial ground was in use between 1661 and 1855 with an estimated 12,000 Quakers having been buried here in unmarked graves. Quakers until 1845 headstones were considered a vanity.

The site was the first freehold land the Quakers acquired in 1661. There used to be more buildings which formed the Bunhill Memorial Buildings which included an adult school, coffee tavern, school rooms, a medical mission and the first meeting house on the site.

The buildings were bombed in 1941 during the Blitz and all that remains is the caretakers cottage which is still very much in use today.

Famous Quakers: Judi Dench, James Dean, Richard Nixon and John Cadbury.

The surrounding area used to be one of the poorest in London and in spite of recent gentrification, the population remains very mixed. There is a Peabody Estate next door.

The Quaker Memorial Garden has been recently redeveloped to include a public garden, children's playground and ball court.

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St Barts Hospital - a brief history

Henry VIII Gate, St Barts Hospital, London

St Barts Hospital is one of the oldest hospitals in the world. It's certainly the oldest hospital in Britain.

St Barts Hospital was founded in 1123 and has continued to care for the sick and injured and is now one of the leading hospitals in the world. Amazingly it still occupies its original site having survived the Dissolution of 1539, the Great Fire of London in 1666 and the Blitz 1940-1941. 

The Henry VIII gate (in picture above) is the main public entrance to the hospital and is the only known public statue of Henry VIII in London.

William Hogarth, the painter, printmaker, satirist and social critic was also a big supporter of British artistic talent. When the commission for two new paintings for the staircase of St Barts Hospital was available in order to prevent an Italian artist from taking the work he produced two large murals free of charge to prove that home grown talent was equal to that of Italy. It was also a perfect opportunity to show off his talent to well off potential patrons.

The murals The Pool of Bethesda (1736) and The Good Samaritan (1737) are still hanging in the stairwell. The Pool of Bethesda is of particular medical interest, as it shows the scene where Christ cures the sick.

St Bartholomew's Hospital Museum and Archives website

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Best bits for Bonfire Night, 5th November

Celebrate Bonfire Night with these fabulous recipes:

Fabulous Toffee Apple Cupcake recipe
Super simple firework cake recipe

What is bonfire night all about? Blog post: The history of Bonfire Night

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Visit Charles Dickens Museum, London

The Dining Room, Dickens' Museum

This unique Museum is based at 48 Doughty Street in the heart of Bloomsbury, London. 

It is the only remaining London residence of the celebrated writer and certainly worth a visit. It's a wonderful way of stepping back in time and experiencing a Victorian family home with additional treat of learning more about the writer, his influences and his works. 

Dickens' Museum Cafe - a real treat

The staff at both the cafe and in the museum itself were friendly and attentive which added to an enjoyable couple of hours at the Dickens' Museum.
 
Seeing the desk at which Dickens wrote in his study on the first floor was a particular treat. It was interesting to learn how regimented his day was; with writing from breakfast to lunch everyday to minimise distractions. 

One of his friends wrote:

 "His mind was essentially methodical and in his labour he was governed by rules

 laid down by himself and rarely departed from" 

The cafe on the ground floor includes a lovely little garde in which to enjoy Garraways Fairtrade coffee and cakes from The Little London Bakery. I enjoyed a large hot bowl of Butternut squash & parsley soup. It's worth noting you can visit the cafe without visiting the museum.

Dickens Museum Admission Prices:

Adult:  £8

Concession:  £6

Child 6-16 years:  £4

Children under 6 years:  Free

Artfund Members: Free

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The Angel Inn - Islington, London

Here "London begins in earnest..." Noah Claypole remarks to his companion Charlotte when walking past the Angel Inn in Charles Dickens' Oliver Twist before crossing into St John Road (now St John Street). 

Dickens was very familiar with the area of Islington. He recorded life in the area in both fiction and non fictional works throughout his life, the Angel Inn being one of them. There has been an Inn on this site since the C16th & The Angel, so named around 1638, was a popular stopping place for travellers to the City of London. 

No room at the Inn

During the year of the Great Plague a man broke free from his City home and sought refuge here, which was at that time fairly rural. He was refused admission. Another Inn took him in and he was found dead the next morning, 16 plague deaths followed. 

Islington underwent a rapid transformation in the early C19th moving from a rural area best known for its recreational facilities to one of an urban domain. It is understood Thomas Paine lodged here when living in London. The original Angel Inn was eventually demolished later that century.

The Truman, Hanbury, Buxton and Co brewery built the Angel Hotel in its place. A grand, six-story, red terracotta building (see pic above). Along with the opening the brewers optimistically called the Angel Inn "the widest-known hostelry in the world". The interior was rather splendid; the ground floor being faced in polished Norwegian granite and carved stone cherubs peeking out from the higher eaves. The staircase was equally impressive; mahogany and green-marble leading from the bar to an upstairs smoking room. 

As is with fashion nowadays, the highly en vogue Victorian design went out of fashion and the Angel Hotel closed 20yrs after opening. 

Lyons catering company bought the Angel Hotel renamed it the Angel Cafe and made it an addition to their Corner House post-war empire. In the 1950s it is said the company was serving over 100,000 meals a year to the public. It lasted until 1959, was used by the University of London's Geology Dept until the late 60s. It has served as a bank since 1979.

Thomas Paine once lodged at the Angel Inn. If you are in the area, you might be interested in seeing the obelisk of Thomas Paine, founding father of the United States.

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Thomas Paine in London - the Seeker of Truth?

Thomas Paine Obelisk, Angel Square, Islington 

Angel tube as with other tube stations is a popular meeting place. 

If you find yourself hanging around waiting for someone may I suggest nipping round the corner to Angel Square as there is a rather interesting obelisk only open during day time.

The obelisk is in tribute to Thomas Paine, one of the founding father of the United States. The obelisk was erected to commemorate the 200th anniversary of the publication of Right's of Man his most famous piece of work "Rights of Man" while lodging at the The Old Red Lion public house on the corner of Rawnstorne Street and St John Street. 

The Old Red Lion, St John Street

The Pub is still there and is now a fabulous little theatre which is well worth a visit. See what's on at the Old Red Lion Theatre. Thomas Paine also lodged at The Angel Inn, Islington when living in London.

Thomas Paine is also known to have lodged at the iconic Angel Inn on the corner of Islington High Street and Pentonville Road. The exterior may still be impressive but the Cooperative Bank which it now houses is less so.

Thomas Paine came from humble beginnings, being born into a Quaker family on 29th January 1737 in Thetford, Norfolk. At 12 yrs of age he failed school and left to become an apprentice to his father. His apprenticeship was complete in seven years after being an adventurous 19yr old went to sea. He soon came to London to seek his fortune where he became an Excise Tax Officer. In 1772 at the age of 31 he published "The Case of the Officers of Excise" arguing a pay rise for officers.

When 37, by happen-stance he met Benjamin Franklin in London who helped him emigrate to Philadelphia by

The Angel Inn, Islington High Street

providing letters of recommendation. At the age of 39, now having moved to Philadelphia, Paine wrote a pamphlet entitled "Common Sense" a strong defence for American Independence from England. In Paine's view the Colonies had all the right to revolt against a government which imposed taxes but didn't give them the right of representation in Parliament, Westminster, London. The publication was a huge success selling 500,000 copies.

The life expectancy then was c.50yrs old. And it was at this age Thomas Paine travelled across the Atlantic and back to London in an attempt to raise funds to build a bridge he had designed. Lodging at The Old Red Lion Pub he wrote his most famous work "Right's of Man", his response to criticism of the French Revolution. This work caused him to become an outlaw in England for his anti-Monarchist views. He escaped arrest by fleeing to France where he joined the National Convention.

Even though a true Republican Paine was imprisoned in France for voting against the execution of Louis XVI. During his imprisonment he wrote and distributed "The Age of Reason". He narrowly escaped execution by returning to America at the invitation of Thomas Jefferson.

Upon his return Paine found that much of his work towards an American Republic had been all but eradicated due to him being accused of being an Atheist. President Roosevelt stated "strong religious minds are not likely to be affected by the atheism of Paine."

Seven years later and Paine is on his deathbed with priests and religious nurses cajoling and threatening him to renounce his anti-Christian ways. He never did. Derided by the public and abandoned by his friends Thomas Paine died 8th June 1809 at the grand old age of 72 in New York City.

The newspapers of the day read "He lived long, did some good, and much harm" but with hindsight perhaps this is an unworthy epitaph?

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How to become The Right Honourable, The Lord Mayor of London

The Right Honourable the Lord Mayor of London is the legal title for the Mayor of (and head of) the City of London Corporation. The Lord Mayor of London is to be distinguished from the Mayor of London; the former is an officer only of the City of London, while the Mayor of London is the Mayor of Greater London and as such governs a much larger area. Within the City of London, the Lord Mayor has precedence over other individuals and has various special powers, rights and privileges.

Want to become The Right Honourable the Lord Mayor of London? Find out in this short video:

You may also like my blog post:

City of London - A City in a City, in a Country in a Country Explained

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Roman London in AD70

London Guildhall's Ampitheatre

It's been ten years since Boudica burned Londinium to the ground....

The city was a commercial hub for the rest of the continent and was increasing in its importance. This is evident from the large scale infrastructure the Romans built including Briton's first ampitheatre, forum and basilica. 

Roman Forum - Image from www.historic-uk.com

A Roman ampitheatre is a large, circular open air venue with raised seating used for sporting events and executions. The ampitheatre was excavated at London Guidhall in 1987 and now holds several pieces of world class art.

A Roman Forum was a hub for business, containing markets, shops and offices.A Roman Basilica was used as a civic centre. Londinium's Basilica was the largest north of the Alps which matched the scale of the city's expansion. 

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Walk along the Thames Path from Hampton

The river Thames, Hampton 

Hampton is a lovely place to spend a sunny summer's day. The scene is if from a brochure with idyllic waterfronts and rowers on the Thames.

The London section of the Thames Path covers 40 miles (64 km) of easy, level walking on both sides of the river from Hampton Court Palace, through the heart of London to the East India Dock on the north bank and the River Darent on the south bank.

Did you know?

The river Thames is Europe's cleanest major river.

When walking from Hampton the Thames Path skirts the gardens to

Hampton Court Palace which are level and terrain easy. The walk on the north bank from Hampton Court to Kingston Bridge is 2.9miles (4.6km) and should take about 70 mins at a leisurely pace. Map of walk
Don't worry about losing your way, the Thames Path is clearly signed and waymarked along its length using the distinctive National Trail acorn symbol alongside its name. There are also lots of extra information boards to interpret the things you meet along the way. 

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